Few designers can boast of being almost entirely self-taught, particularly at the beginning of their careers, though they may later train in various workshops, talks and courses. Roser Martinez, however, openly states that jewellery began for her as a hobby, a hobby that subsequently became a professional career.
Four years later, her jewellery is some of the most striking around. From the simplest to the most complex, such as her complicated necklaces to be worn down the back, her pieces speak to a careful and polished design. “I like to create alternative pieces – I say that I design for women who don’t go for the conventional. I’m one of those professionals who makes signature jewellery and contemporary jewellery,” she says.
Roser is very clear on this subject. Depending on the market you want to focus on, your designs will go one way or another. More classic and safe with necklaces, rings and bracelets that are easier to wear if you’re talking about signature jewellery, or more daring and risky in its forms for more cutting-edge contemporary jewellery. “Some of my pieces are multidisciplinary owing to their volume. In this way, they’re more versatile. I love to create pieces that can be worn in different ways. For example, the Heures necklace from the Emerging Nature collection can also be used as a headdress or sash. It’s jewellery for special occasions, not for every day,” says Roser.
In her work, the Catalan designer happily experiments with a mixture of textures and materials, simply to see if an idea works or not. That is why some of her pieces can resemble a complex network of branches in the wild. “I don’t have any kind of concrete working method. I just mix things together and look for a harmony between materials, colours, sizes… And even though my style is imperfect and asymmetric, I need to find balance in each piece,” she says.
Nature, the sea, or certain emotions are constant reference points in her work, as well as places like l’Empordà which she looks to constantly. This is why, in an almost logical evolution, Roser is now discovering porcelain and velvet dust as new elements to incorporate into her work. “Right now I’m focused on pieces where I mix something very rudimentary, such as wire, with a more precious material such as gold. I really like these contrasts. At the end of the day, it’s a matter of learning and evolving,” she says.
This article is also available in Español